Sondrio sits roughly in the middle of the Valtellina — the 130-kilometre alpine valley that the Adda river cuts east to west through the Lombardy Alps. To the west is Lake Como, its switchback lakeside road connecting the valley to Milan. To the east is the Stelvio National Park, where three of the most famous climbs in cycling history leave the valley floor and ascend into a landscape of glaciers and granite moraines above 2,000 metres.
The Valtellina is why cyclists come to this part of Lombardy. Everything else — the terraced Nebbiolo vineyards producing Sforzato and Valtellina Superiore, the Norman tower in Sondrio's old town, the thermal spas at Bormio — is the material of a rest day. The main reason to arrive is to climb. Specifically, three of them: the Stelvio, the Gavia, and the Mortirolo.
The Three Passes
Stelvio (2,758m above sea level)
The Stelvio is the second-highest paved road in Europe. From Bormio on the Valtellina side, the ascent climbs 21.5 kilometres at an average of 7.1 percent, with 48 numbered hairpin bends stacked in the upper section like a landscape architect's thought experiment. The view from the top sweeps across the Ortler massif, into Switzerland's Engadin valley to the north, and down into the Solda valley to the south. The descent to Stelvio village is a matched set of hairpins on the other side, typically ridden with more caution than the climb.
From Sondrio, Bormio is approximately 70 kilometres east along the valley floor — mostly flat along the SS38, which is the main valley road and carries traffic. Cyclists typically drive to Bormio and ride from there.
The Enjoy Stelvio Valtellina initiative runs from May 30 to September 19, 2026 and closes the Stelvio Pass to motorised traffic on designated days throughout the season. On car-free days, the road belongs entirely to cyclists. The initiative is free, requires no registration, and is not a competition. Check the official Bormio calendar for specific car-free dates before planning your trip.
Gavia (2,618m above sea level)
The Gavia is the Stelvio's quieter, narrower counterpart. The approach from Santa Caterina Valfurva covers 24.8 kilometres to the 2,652-metre summit through the Stelvio National Park on a road that is, in places, barely wide enough for two cyclists to pass side by side. The surface is maintained but thin, the gradient averaging approximately 6.9 percent from the valley with steeper ramps in the middle third.
The summit pass itself, at the top of the Valfurva side, opens onto a small lake and a refuge — one of the better rest-day stops in the Alps. The descent into Ponte di Legno in the Brescia province is fast, wide, and drops more directly than the ascent.
The Gavia is also covered by the Enjoy Stelvio Valtellina car-free calendar. In high summer, reaching the summit under motor-free conditions and then descending alone into the valley produces the specific kind of quiet that only high-altitude passes can sustain.
Mortirolo (1,852m above sea level)
The Mortirolo does not compete on altitude. It competes on gradient. The 12.5-kilometre ascent from Mazzo di Valtellina includes sections that hit 20 percent, an average over the climb of approximately 10.5 percent from the classic Giro d'Italia access point, and a reputation sustained in part by what Marco Pantani did here in 1994: a solo acceleration on a steep section above Monno that the Giro's televised coverage turned into one of the sport's enduring images.
The Mortirolo is harder than the Stelvio and the Gavia in the specific sense that it does not ease on the way up. The gradient sustains. Riders who expect the rhythm of an alpine pass — where flat sections between ramps allow recovery — find the Mortirolo unsympathetic. Riders who accept the sustained effort and pace accordingly find it manageable at below race pace.
The Gavia and Mortirolo are featured in MOGAST (June 26–28), a non-competitive cycling event dedicated to the legendary passes, and the Granfondo Gavia & Mortirolo (July 5) — both in-season options for riders wanting a structured event rather than a solo attempt.
The Easier Day: Sentiero Valtellina
The Sentiero Valtellina is 114 kilometres of flat, mixed cycling-pedestrian path running from Bormio to Lake Como. It follows the Adda river through the valley, passing through Sondrio and every main town along the route. The surface is paved or compacted and the elevation gain is minimal — a recovery-day ride or a long family outing that happens to pass through genuinely beautiful landscape.
From Sondrio to Lake Como is approximately 65 kilometres west along the Sentiero, finishing at Colico on the northern tip of the lake where ferries cross to Menaggio and Varenna.
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May and June offer the best combination of open passes and manageable road traffic. The Stelvio typically opens to cyclists in late May after snowploughs clear the upper section. June conditions are optimal — passes open, temperatures below 20°C at the summit, roads not yet carrying the peak-summer vehicle load.
July and August see the valley become warm and crowded, though the Enjoy Stelvio Valtellina car-free days turn the passes into a different experience entirely. High summer on a car-free Stelvio, starting before 7am, is one of the more exceptional cycling experiences in Europe.
September brings cooler temperatures, lower traffic, and the harvest beginning in the lower vineyards. One of the most underrated months in the valley.
Avoid late October through April: the upper passes close to snow, the lower roads can ice, and the valley's cycling infrastructure goes into off-season mode.
Where to Base
Sondrio — the valley's capital and the Tour de Suisse's Stage 1 host city. Hotels at all price points, bike hire available, good road access east toward Bormio and west toward Como. The old town has a decent restaurant strip along Via della Vittoria.
Bormio — the alpine town at the eastern end of the valley and the logical base for Stelvio and Gavia rides. A spa town with a distinct alpine character, accommodation catering to cyclists and skiers, and the closest practical starting point for both major passes. The Val Viola and the Cancano lakes are nearby for non-cycling days.
Aprica — sits on the ridge separating the Valtellina from the Camonica valley to the south. A smaller resort town with a mountain-bike skill centre for those mixing road and trail riding.
How to Get There
Fly into Bergamo (Orio al Serio airport): approximately 90 minutes by car east along the valley. The A4 motorway and then the SS38 take you into Sondrio without complications. Bergamo is the most convenient option for most international arrivals.
Milan Malpensa: approximately two hours by car. Use if Bergamo is full or for direct intercontinental connections.
Verona Villafranca: approximately 90 minutes on the A22 then north through Val Camonica. An alternative for those arriving from the east.
By train: Milan Centrale to Sondrio runs approximately 2.5 hours on regional trains. Bormio requires a bus connection from Tirano. Bikes are permitted on regional services with a small surcharge — book a spot in advance in high season.
Frequently Asked
Do I need to be fit to ride the Stelvio? The Stelvio from Bormio is 21.5 kilometres of steady climbing. At a touring pace of around 10 km/h, that is over two hours of continuous ascent. Strong recreational cyclists with good aerobic base handle it without problems. Complete beginners should start with shorter climbs in the valley before attempting the summit.
Can I combine all three passes in one day? The classic "Fausto Coppi" combination — Stelvio, Gavia, and Mortirolo in a single loop — covers approximately 170 kilometres with over 5,000 metres of elevation and is one of the hardest single-day rides in the Alps. Reserve this for riders with significant endurance background and good weather forecasting.
Is the Mortirolo accessible by car for logistical support? Yes. The road is narrow but accessible by car on most of its length from Mazzo. A support vehicle can follow the ascent at climbing pace without overtaking on the steepest sections.
Where can I find riders to share the Stelvio with? Connect with cyclists already training in the Valtellina via Find Athletes in Sondrio or Bormio on ZealZag — the most efficient way to find someone who knows which sections to watch on the Mortirolo.
For today's Tour de Suisse Stage 1 race coverage from Sondrio, see our Stage 1 field report. Stage 2 moves to Locarno tomorrow — watch for our coverage as the race enters Switzerland.
