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The First 9a: Wolfgang Güllich, Action Directe, and the Move That Changed Climbing
In 1991, Wolfgang Güllich made the first ascent of Action Directe in Bavaria's Frankenjura — completing a route now recognised as the world's first 9a. The route is nine metres long, and it required Güllich to invent a new training tool specifically to build the finger and pulling power that a single explosive movement demanded. He died in a car accident less than a year later. The campus board is in every climbing gym in the world.
By ZealZag TeamFrankenjura: Europe's Hardest Limestone Belt, Three Hours from Prague
The Frankenjura in northern Bavaria holds the highest concentration of hard sport routes in Europe — Action Directe is here, 3.5 hours southwest of Prague, and the sectors between Pottenstein, Gößweinstein, and Betzenstein cover every grade from beginner slab to cutting-edge 9a. The practical guide for athletes heading from WCS Prague toward WCS Innsbruck.
By ZealZag Team