Running Western States 100: The Sierra Nevada to Auburn Trail Guide

The Western States trail was not designed as a race course. It was a mining and livestock route used by gold rush-era prospectors to move cattle from Nevada pastures to Sacramento valley markets, following paths that Washoe and Nisenan peoples had established through the Sierra for centuries before European contact. The Tevis Cup, a 100-mile horse race contested annually since 1955, established the route as a competitive objective. The human footrace that became Western States began informally in 1974 when Gordy Ainsleigh completed the course on foot after his horse went lame.

The modern race is governed by a strict permit allowing 369 runners. The trail underneath all of it is still the same route — still the most honest 100 miles of terrain available to anyone who chooses to run it.

The Course in Sections

The Sierra Traverse: Olympic Valley to Robinson Flat (Miles 0–30)

The race begins at the Palisades Tahoe ski area parking lot at 6,200 feet. The first miles climb above the ski lifts into the Granite Chief Wilderness — alpine meadows, exposed granite ridges, views toward Lake Tahoe at dawn.

The trail rises to the Emigrant Pass area at approximately 8,750 feet before the long descent toward the American River watershed. These Sierra miles reward runners who manage downhill efficiently — the technical footing on granite slabs damages quadriceps faster than flat running, and the damage accumulates. A runner who charges the Sierra descents arrives at Robinson Flat ahead of schedule but with legs that will not forgive it in the canyons.

Key landmarks: - Lyon Ridge (10 miles): First major ridge crossing. Temperature still Sierra-cold in early morning. - Red Star Ridge (16 miles): A significant climb back up after the first descent — the course's reminder that the Sierra is not a downhill run. - Duncan Canyon (24 miles): First major canyon descent and creek crossing. Preview of the canyon character to come. - Robinson Flat (30 miles): First crew-accessible aid station and first tactical reading of the race.

Training access: Palisades Tahoe trailhead to Robinson Flat is accessible as a point-to-point training run with a vehicle shuttle. The most popular training segment for lottery athletes.

The Canyon Country: Robinson Flat to Foresthill (Miles 30–62)

The character changes completely between miles 30 and 62. The trail descends into the North Fork American River drainage and climbs and descends repeatedly across canyon systems that have no equivalent in ultramarathon running anywhere else in North America. The exposure to afternoon heat becomes severe by mile 40.

Key landmarks: - Dusty Corners (38 miles): Transition into the deepest canyon sections. Temperature here can be 30°F higher than at the Sierra summit three hours earlier. - Last Chance (43 miles): One of the most remote points on the course — crew cannot access this area. The descent to the creek crossing is steep and technical. - Devil's Thumb (47 miles): The 1,800-foot climb on switchbacks — the course's sorting mechanism. Runners with compromised quads from the downhill miles may spend 45 minutes on an ascent that a fresh runner covers in 20–25. - Michigan Bluff (55 miles): Road crossing with crew access. Critical resupply point. - Foresthill (62 miles): The race's most important checkpoint. The largest aid station. The decision point.

Training note: The remote canyon segments should not be run solo without local knowledge. Auburn and Truckee running clubs organise course preview runs in spring.

The River and Finish: Foresthill to Auburn (Miles 62–100.2)

The Foresthill-to-Auburn section carries the most runnable terrain — the Cal Street descent and river trail have enough flat sections to allow competitive athletes to open their stride after the canyon abuse.

Key landmarks: - Cal Street descent (62–70 miles): From Foresthill into the river canyon. Steep, technical, knee-demanding. - Rucky Chucky (78 miles): The American River crossing — waist-deep in June snowmelt. Ropes assist the crossing; the cold water provides brief involuntary cooling. - Green Gate (79.8 miles): First aid station post-river. Runners with intact pacing sometimes experience a second wind here. - Auburn Lake Trails (85 miles): Final stretch of technical trail before the finish sequence. - No Hands Bridge (96.8 miles): The historic trestle bridge over the American River canyon. - Robie Point (99 miles): The final climb — a short, steep road section. - Placer High School, Auburn (100.2 miles): The finish. The track oval. The finisher's buckle.

Qualifying and Entry

Western States operates a competitive lottery. Applicants must complete a qualifying race of 100km or more within the 12 months before the lottery cutoff (typically early December). Multi-year applicants accumulate additional lottery tickets.

Golden ticket entries — automatic qualification — are awarded at six designated qualifier races annually. Running a top finishing position at a golden ticket race bypasses the lottery entirely.

With a permit cap of 369 runners and an applicant pool in the thousands, first-time applicants currently face below 10% acceptance rates.

Two fundamental differences from standard 100-mile training:

Descent volume. The race requires 23,000 feet of descent — more than any comparable 100-mile course. Training must include back-to-back long days with significant elevation loss on the second day, teaching the legs to absorb impact when already fatigued.

Heat adaptation. Canyon sections between miles 40 and 78 sustain temperatures above 90°F for 4–8 hours in June. Standard protocols: regular sauna sessions (20–30 min, 3–4 times per week) in the six weeks before the race, arriving 3–5 days early for acclimatisation, ice at every crew access point in the canyon section.

Weekly volume: Competitive sub-24-hour finishers typically run 70–90 miles per week in peak training, with long-run weeks reaching 100+ miles during months 4 and 5 of the build.

Getting There

Olympic Valley (start): 32 miles northwest of Lake Tahoe via California Highway 89. Nearest airports: Reno-Tahoe International (~50 miles) or Sacramento International (~100 miles). Truckee, CA, 10 miles east of Olympic Valley, is the most practical base.

Auburn (finish): 100 miles west of Olympic Valley via I-80. Race week accommodation at both ends books out 6–12 months in advance — book immediately upon receiving a lottery place.

Training Bases

Truckee (5,800 ft) for altitude acclimatisation and direct trail access to the Sierra section. The Truckee running community trains specifically on course terrain in spring months.

Auburn for the canyon and river finish sections. Much lower elevation (1,300 ft) — split weeks between both bases covers the full course character.

Frequently Asked

Can I run the Western States trail outside of race season? Yes. The trail is a National Recreation Trail open year-round. High Sierra sections are snow-covered November through May — snowshoes or route-finding skill required. Canyon sections are accessible most of the year.

What are pacers allowed to do? Pacers are permitted from Foresthill (mile 62). They must register with the race and receive a pacer bib. They run the final 38 miles alongside the athlete but receive no official finish time.

What is the typical finish time distribution? The buckle system: under 24 hours (silver) and 24–30 hours (bronze). Approximately 60–65% of starters complete within the 30-hour cutoff.

How does Western States compare to UTMB or Hardrock? Western States is distinguished by its heat, descent volume, and accessible point-to-point character. UTMB involves more technical alpine terrain and higher sustained altitude. Hardrock has more total elevation across a harder, more remote route. Western States is the most accessible of the three while still being genuinely demanding.

Where can I find running partners for Western States trail training? Connect with athletes in Truckee and Auburn via Find Trail Runners Near Western States on ZealZag.

For today's 2026 elite field preview, see our Western States 100 2026 field report. For international ultra trail coverage, see this week's Giro Donne Stage 5 field report from the Dolomites.