Ticino is Switzerland's accent, its anomaly, its most interesting secret from the north. Cross the Gotthard — by tunnel, by pass, or by rail — and the language changes, the architecture changes, the light changes. The language is Italian. The architecture is Lombard. The light, in June and September, is the specific gold that makes the lakes of this region look fictional.
Locarno sits at the northern end of Lake Maggiore, where the Maggia river fans into the delta and the lake begins its 65-kilometre run into Italy. The Tour de Suisse has raced here before; Stage 2 of the 2026 edition used it as the stage's centrepiece, a 157.7-kilometre loop that took the peloton south toward the Italian border, inland through the Verzasca valley approaches, up and over Monte Ceneri, and back to the lakeside via the Fanghi and Orselina climbs. The roads are public. The views are the same. Here is how to ride them.
The Stage 2 Loop
The Stage 2 circuit can be approximated by recreational riders across multiple formats — a compact lakeshore ride, the full circuit, or a focused climb-day version.
Monte Ceneri (5.2km at 6.4% average). The stage's longest climb connects the lake basin to the plateau above. Start from Cadenazzo on the valley floor; the road narrows into the stone villages and terrace farms of the hillside before reaching the summit at around 550 metres. The descent to Bellinzona is fast and open. The views across the Ticino plain back toward the Alps are expansive in clear weather.
Fanghi (approximately 3.5km at 7%). Above the town of Gudo, rising toward the wooded ridge above the Maggia valley. Steeper than Monte Ceneri in its middle section; a good reference climb for the Orselina's shorter effort to follow.
Orselina (1.4km at 8.5%). The stage's finale climb, rising from Locarno's northern edge to the village of Orselina and the Madonna del Sasso sanctuary. The lower ramps are the steepest; from the sanctuary terrace, Lake Maggiore opens below. The descent back down to the lakeside promenade runs technical — narrow, walled, releasing onto the flat lakeside boulevard that carried today's sprint. Ride it twice: once to understand the Orselina's character, once to remember it.
Loop Options
Lakeshore loop only — Locarno to Ascona and back (22km, 60m of climbing). The lakeside path from Locarno to Ascona runs close to the water through the Brissago islands viewpoint. Flat, paved, suitable for any fitness level. The best way to recover after harder days, or to spend an evening without a goal.
Short circuit — Locarno, Monte Ceneri, Bellinzona (64km, 750m). Ride up Monte Ceneri to the summit, descend to Bellinzona — UNESCO-listed for its three medieval castles — and return via the Ticino valley road. A comfortable half-day.
Stage 2 equivalent — Full circuit (approximately 80–100km, 1,600–2,100m depending on approach). Include all three climbs in sequence: Monte Ceneri, Fanghi, Orselina. Lap from Locarno, ride south toward the Italian border to extend the first section, return via the Orselina descent to the lakeside for the sprint finish section. Plan for 5–7 hours.
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May through October is the practical season. June is outstanding: the lake temperature has risen enough for swimming, the roads are dry, and the vegetation is at full expression. September holds a second peak — harvest light over the Sopraceneri hillside vineyards, lower humidity, and fewer summer tourists.
July and August are workable early; midday heat from 12:00–15:00 pushes experienced riders toward a 06:30 start or an evening loop. The Orselina faces west and catches full afternoon sun in summer — plan the descent in the cooler morning direction where possible.
Getting to Locarno
By rail from Zürich: The Gotthard panorama express (or standard intercity via Arth-Goldau) reaches Bellinzona in 2 hours 15 minutes, Locarno in 2 hours 45. Direct services run hourly. The train carries bikes for a small supplement on selected services.
By rail from Milan: Malpensa Airport to Locarno via the Centovalli Railway from Domodossola — about 3 hours total including the scenic mountain railway section. Alternatively, InterCity Lugano to Bellinzona to Locarno, approximately 2 hours from Milano Centrale.
By car from Zürich: A4/A2 via the Gotthard tunnel. The tunnel adds 16km of flat driving; the old Gotthard pass (only open summer, May–October) adds 45 minutes and produces one of Switzerland's great driving experiences. Allow 2.5–3 hours.
Where to Base
Locarno is the default. Hotels range from budget along the inland streets to lake-view rooms on the Piazza Grande promenade — the same square that hosts the August film festival. The cycling infrastructure is well-developed; several rental options in town, multiple bike-friendly hotels, and clear early-morning routes out of the city before the lakeside tourist traffic builds.
Ascona, 3km southwest, is quieter and slightly more expensive — the artists' colony and gallery town of Ticino, with better restaurant options per capita and a longer promenade walk to Brissago.
Bellinzona for those who want urban access and the castles without the lake premium. Good rail connections make day-ride logistics easier from here; the Maggia valley approach to the Fanghi is a short roll from the Bellinzona station.
What Else to Do
Centovalli Railway. The narrow-gauge line from Locarno to Domodossola (Italy) runs 52 kilometres through the Val Centovalli gorge — one of Switzerland's most scenic rail journeys. A rest-day use of a morning.
Madonna del Sasso. The pilgrimage sanctuary above Locarno, reached by the Orselina funicular from the town centre. The terrace gives the best angle on the lake and the Alps above Ascona. Worth the 10-minute ride up even without the funicular: walk the pilgrim path.
Brissago Islands. Ferry from Locarno or Ascona to the Isole di Brissago — Swiss-territory islands housing a botanical garden, the southernmost point of Switzerland. A worthwhile afternoon.
Verzasca Valley. Drive or ride 20km northeast from Locarno into the Verzasca gorge, one of Switzerland's clearest rivers. The road along the valley is excellent cycling. The dam — famous for James Bond's bungee opening in GoldenEye — is a tourist point and a free spectacle.
FAQ
Is Ticino suitable for road cyclists generally, or only strong climbers? Both. The lakeside routes are flat and accessible. The climb roads (Monte Ceneri, Orselina, the Verzasca approaches) require climbing fitness but not specialist strength. A rider comfortable with 1,500–2,000m of climbing per day will find Ticino consistently interesting.
Is Italian spoken everywhere? Yes. Ticino is a fully Italian-speaking canton. Service in hotels and restaurants defaults to Italian; most local staff also speak German and French. English is widely understood in tourist areas.
Can I cross into Italy from Locarno? Yes. The road continues south to Verbania and Stresa on the Italian shore of Lake Maggiore. The Swiss–Italian border at Brissago is an easy crossing for EU/UK/US travellers. Carry ID.
Where can I connect with other cyclists training in Ticino? Search Find Athletes in Locarno or Bellinzona on ZealZag to connect with riders who know the local roads.
For Stage 2's race coverage from Locarno, see our Stage 2 field report. For Stage 1's Valtellina route guide, see our Sondrio and Adda Valley cycling guide.
