Lake Maggiore is the Italian Lakes' quieter cousin. Como gets the celebrity homes and the Vespa-tour Instagram traffic; Garda gets the windsurfers and the family holidays. Maggiore, longer than either and split between Piedmont, Lombardy, and Switzerland's Ticino, has spent the last fifty years being beloved by exactly the right people — Italian cyclists, lake-house painters, and Swiss day-trippers — and almost no one else.
Stage 13 of the 2026 Giro d'Italia rolled along Maggiore's western shore on its run-in to Verbania, dragging the international cycling cameras across roads that the granfondisti of Piedmont have been training on for decades. If you want to ride those same kilometres yourself, the geography makes it easy. Pick a lakeside base, pick a loop, ride.
The Route in Brief
The classic ride is a circumnavigation of the lake's western shore, with two options for the inland leg.
Short loop — Verbania to Stresa and back (52 km, 350m of climbing). Hug the lakeside the entire way south on the SS33. Through Baveno, into Stresa for a coffee on the Piazza Marconi (ferry traffic to the Borromean islands runs from the pier here every twenty minutes). Turn back along the same shore, or extend onto the smaller back roads through Belgirate. Mostly flat, with a few short rolls.
Medium loop — Verbania to the Ungiasca and back (74 km, 950m of climbing). Climb the same Ungiasca that featured in Stage 13's finale — 4.7 km at 7.1 percent, with the steepest ramps in the middle third. The summit sits at roughly 700 metres of elevation, with views back down to the lake on the descent. Loop back via the SS33 lakeside road. This is the granfondo setup.
Long loop — Verbania to Cannobio and back (96 km, 600m of climbing). Ride north along the lake to Cannobio, ten kilometres short of the Swiss border. The road traffic stays heavy through Ghiffa and Oggebbio, then thins north of Cannero Riviera. Stop in Cannobio for lunch — the medieval centre is worth half an hour. Return the way you came, or push on into Switzerland for a longer day.
When to Ride
April through October is the practical season. May and September are ideal: temperatures in the high teens to mid twenties, lake-driven afternoon breezes, and the road traffic still manageable before the summer tourism peak. July and August are humid and crowded — locals ride at dawn or push higher into the surrounding mountains. November to March, the climbs see snow above 1,000 metres and the lakeside roads run damp under fog.
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Verbania is the practical choice. The town sits at the mouth of the Toce river on the lake's western shore, with two distinct old centres (Pallanza and Intra) connected by a lakeside promenade. Hotels in the Suna and Pallanza districts give you direct road access to the SS33 in both directions. The Stage 13 finish line was in central Pallanza — you can ride out from a hotel and onto Giro roads inside two minutes.
Stresa is the postcard option. Belle-époque hotels, ferry access to the Borromean islands (Isola Bella, Isola dei Pescatori, Isola Madre), and the Mottarone cable car running up to the 1,491-metre peak above town. Slightly more touristed than Verbania, slightly more expensive, slightly more comfortable.
Cannobio for those who want quieter roads and proximity to Switzerland. Less infrastructure, more local feel, and an easier launch point for rides that cross the Italian-Swiss border.
How to Get There
Fly into Milan Malpensa — 60 minutes by car or 90 minutes by train to Verbania. Bike rental and bike-friendly hotels are easy to arrange.
By train. Direct service from Milan Centrale to Verbania-Pallanza, roughly one hour. Regional trains continue along the lake's western shore to Cannobio. Bring your bike — Trenitalia accepts bikes on regional services for a small surcharge.
By car from Switzerland or France adds time but unlocks the inland routes — coming down from the Simplon Pass into the lake basin is one of the great descents in European cycling.
What Else to Do
Stresa's ferry to Isola Bella is a non-negotiable rest-day activity. The Borromean palace and gardens earn the entry fee. Hike the Mottarone ridge for top-down lake views. Swim the lake itself — Pallanza's public beach is clean, free, and lake-cold even in August. For climbers, the Sasso d'Egro and the routes above Lago di Mergozzo are short drives from Verbania.
Frequently Asked
Is Lake Maggiore suitable for beginners? The lakeside roads are flat and well-paved, but traffic on the SS33 can be heavy in summer. Beginners should ride midweek mornings, stick to the short loops, and avoid Saturday afternoons in July.
How does Maggiore compare to Lake Como for cycling? Maggiore is flatter and quieter overall. Como has the famous Madonna del Ghisallo, the Giro di Lombardia roads, and a denser network of climbs, but Maggiore offers a more relaxed cycling holiday with less traffic and easier loops.
Can I ride into Switzerland from Verbania? Yes. The lakeside road continues into Ticino at the Brissago border crossing. Ascona and Locarno are roughly 35 kilometres from Cannobio. A passport is no longer required for EU/UK/US visitors but carry ID.
Where can I find ride-buddies in the area? Local cycling clubs in Verbania and Stresa welcome English-speaking visitors for their Sunday club rides. Connect with athletes already training in the region via Find Athletes in Verbania on ZealZag — the easiest way to find someone who knows the local roads.
For the Stage 13 race coverage, see our Verbania field report. For a coastal alternative further south, our Liguria cycling guide covers the Riviera di Ponente roads that Stage 12 traced.
