Stage 4 of the Tour Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes finishes today in Montrond-les-Bains — a small thermal spa town on the Loire plain, roughly 25 kilometres south of Saint-Étienne, at the foot of the Forez mountains. It is not a famous cycling finish. It is not a famous anything. But the terrain it sits at the edge of is one of the more underrated cycling regions in France, and the fact that the Tour Auvergne's route has reached here means the approach roads — the volcanic plateau of Haute-Loire crossing into the Forez corridor — have been in front of the peloton for the last hundred kilometres.
The Forez massif runs roughly north–south between the Loire river basin to the east and the Allier valley to the west. Its summit, the Pierre-sur-Haute, reaches 1,634 metres — higher than most of what Stage 4's peloton has ridden this week, and higher than most non-specialist cyclists expect from a region nobody talks about. The Parc Naturel Régional Livradois-Forez covers the southern half of the massif and the adjacent Livradois plateau, protecting and maintaining the road and trail network that makes it worth visiting with a bike.
The Routes
Pierre-sur-Haute from Ambert (80km round trip, 2,000m of climbing). Ambert is the natural gateway from the Livradois side — a working town in the Dore valley with café infrastructure and a road north that climbs steadily through the foothills before committing to the summit ridge. The upper section above 1,200m is exposed moorland: bring a windproof regardless of the season. The summit plateau at 1,634m sits above treeline and offers clear views east across the Loire plain and, on a good day, west toward the Cantal. The descent on the outward road is long and clean. Alternative return via the D261 through Viverols adds terrain variety without changing the total difficulty meaningfully.
Montrond-les-Bains to Saint-Bonnet-le-Château (65km, 1,000m). Leave Montrond's thermal district heading south on the D8 and climb into the Forez foothills through the Vizézy valley. Saint-Bonnet-le-Château — one of the better-preserved medieval hill towns in the Loire department, with a collegiate church and a covered market — is the natural turnaround point or lunch stop. The return via the D498 through Usson-en-Forez runs a different set of valleys and delivers another categorised climb before the descent to the Loire plain. A half-day effort from today's Stage 4 finish town; rideable by mid-afternoon if Stage 4 ends by lunchtime.
The Loire valley connector (40km, 150m). Feurs to Montbrison along the D8, flat through the agricultural plain with the Forez ridge visible on the left horizon. A recovery day ride or a useful shuttle between bases on opposite sides of the massif. The towns through here are small and infrastructure is limited — carry food and fill water bottles before leaving Feurs.
When to Ride
May through October is the reliable season. The summit plateau sees the last snow in April after a heavy winter. The best months are May and September: temperatures in the high teens on the lower roads, reliably cool above 1,000m. July and August work on the summit but can be hot on the foothills approach roads below 600m. November to March: the lower Forez and the Loire valley stay rideable, but the summit region closes to practical cycling.
Early June — which is when Stage 4 of the Tour Auvergne arrives here — is among the best windows. The road surfaces come out of winter in good condition, the foothills wildflowers are running, and traffic on the secondary roads is nearly absent.
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Montbrison (historical Forez capital, ~17,000 inhabitants) is the practical choice for riding the western Forez from the Loire side. The town's botanical garden, the Collégiale Notre-Dame cloister, and the old market district are worth a rest-day hour. Hotel and gîte availability is reasonable outside August. Direct road access to the D8 for the Saint-Bonnet route and the Feurs flat loop.
Ambert (Livradois-Forez headquarters, ~7,000 inhabitants) suits riders prioritising the eastern approach and the Pierre-sur-Haute. Quieter than Montbrison, marginally less infrastructure, better access to the summit circuit. The town is a genuinely pleasant base — the thirteenth-century round church and the paper-making museum are the cultural anchors.
Montrond-les-Bains itself works as a short stay around the Stage 4 finish. The thermal spa complex — pools, treatment rooms, a modern hotel attached — is functional rather than luxurious but provides recovery infrastructure that most cycling bases can't match. Good for a one- or two-night stop before moving on.
Saint-Étienne (20km north of Montrond) offers city-scale infrastructure: TGV from Paris, multiple bike shops, a wide hotel selection, and the trailhead access to the Pilat Massif to the east. Useful as a gateway rather than a cycling base in itself.
How to Get There
By train. Paris Gare de Lyon to Saint-Étienne Chateaucreux: 2.5 hours by TGV. Saint-Étienne to Montbrison: regional train, 30 minutes. Saint-Étienne to Ambert: regional connection via Thiers, 1.5 hours total. Bikes accepted on SNCF regional services with a ticket; check carriage restrictions before booking.
By car. Lyon to Saint-Étienne: 60km on the A47, 45 minutes in off-peak traffic. Lyon to Ambert: A72 east toward Thiers then south on the D906 — roughly 90 minutes. The A72 motorway traverses the Forez massif and provides access points to both the western and eastern sides.
By plane. Lyon Saint-Exupéry is the gateway airport, roughly 75 minutes from Montbrison or Ambert by car. Saint-Étienne Bouthéon Airport handles limited domestic routes from Paris Orly.
What Else to Do
Rocher de Mons, above Saint-Bonnet-le-Château: a volcanic basalt outcrop with a view table and a short walking circuit. Fifteen minutes from the town centre on foot — worth the diversion if you've already ridden to Saint-Bonnet.
Musée Historique de la Dentelle et de la Mode in Montbrison: the Forez region produced fine lace alongside its volcanic cheese and lentil culture. A small but well-curated museum for a rest-day hour.
Gorges de la Dore southeast of Ambert: the Dore river gorge below Arlanc is less dramatic than the Ardèche's famous version but significantly less visited. Good for a canyon walk on a rest day before the summit route.
The Auvergne Volcanoes transition. The Chaîne des Puys and the Puy de Sancy are roughly 80km west of Ambert — a natural second week if you want to extend a Forez base into the broader volcanic Auvergne. The contrast is stark: Forez is forested and pastoral; the Auvergne proper is open, volcanic, and dramatically exposed.
Frequently Asked
How does Forez compare to the main Auvergne cycling destinations? The Chaîne des Puys and the Cantal massif to the west are more dramatic and better-known. The Forez has quieter roads and lower visitor density. If you want crater-top cycling and volcanic panoramas, go west. If you want sustained ridge riding without the crowds, the Forez delivers more per kilometre of road.
Is there bike rental in the area? Limited options locally. Ambert and Montbrison have cycle shops but limited hire fleets. Riders visiting for Stage 4 are better served bringing bikes or hiring from Saint-Étienne.
What is the thermal spa at Montrond-les-Bains actually like? A functional modern resort — therapeutic pools, treatment rooms, a connected hotel — rather than a grand European destination spa. Excellent for a recovery day after a Pierre-sur-Haute effort. Not worth building a trip around in isolation.
Where can I find training partners in the Forez? Connect with cyclists already training the region via Find Athletes near Saint-Étienne or Montbrison on ZealZag.
For Stage 4 race coverage, see our Tour Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Stage 4 field report.